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This week’s guest is Chef Thaddeus “Tad” Drechsler. Tad was born in Ely, where he lived for the first few years of his life. Then, he moved to Oregon with his mother and brother. Later, they moved near Walker, MN to live with his grandmother.
While growing up, Tad spent a lot of time exploring the nearby Chippewa National Forest. His connection to food and cooking began at a young age. His family had a large garden and his grandmother would often take him foraging for ingredients like fiddlehead ferns and mushrooms.
At the age of 13, Tad began working in kitchens and never looked back. After high school, he moved to the Twin Cities where he worked in a variety of restaurants. Tad’s impressive resume includes a fine dining French restaurant in St. Paul, called Meritage, where he worked for nine years.
While there, Tad gained a foundation in classical French technique, as well as great attention to detail and an overall passion for cooking.
Throughout his career, Tad also took part in opening a number of restaurants, including Masu Sushi in Northeast Minneapolis, World Street Kitchen in Uptown Minneapolis, The Handsome Hog in St. Paul, and Apoy in South Minneapolis. More recently, he held the title of Sous Chef at the restaurants Red Cow and the Oceanaire Seafood room in Minneapolis.
Last winter, Tad moved back to Ely after getting burnt out from the corporate aspects of some of his jobs. He needed to reignite his passion by engaging in the slower paced north woods.
Since his return, Tad has enjoyed reconnecting with his roots while foraging and fishing. He works nights at Insula where he occasionally helps with the seafood specials. He also caters with a colleague and recently started at Tower Cafe, where he has been contributing a French flair to the seasonal menu. Some of the items you can expect to see will include French Onion Soup, Croque Madame, and a selection of artisan quiches.
Chef Tad and his team will also be hosting a family-style dinner at Tower Cafe in mid to late October. This menu will showcase German inspired dishes that highlight seasonal produce and the flavors of fall.
As for this week’s recipe, Tad learned to make it while at Meritage. This dish hails from the French region of Alsace that borders Germany. Not surprisingly, Alsatian cuisine features a harmonious blend of French and German flavors.
Choucroute Garnie a l’Alsacienne would make a lovely Oktoberfest celebratory meal. It will also be the featured main course for the Tower Cafe fall dinner.
I would like to thank Chef Tad for sharing his expertise and well-detailed recipe with us. I think we can all appreciate the amount of love and attention that goes into the food he makes. Check out the Tower Cafe Facebook page for more details and to book tickets for the fall dinner.
Choucroute Garnie
a l’Alsacienne
Ingredients:
1 pound pork loin
1 pound pork shoulder
Kosher salt
Fat (preferably goose or duck fat but canola oil will work)
2 yellow onions, julienne (sliced into thin strips)
2 cloves of garlic, minced
10 juniper berries
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
2 whole cloves
2 bay leaves
1 pound slab bacon or pork belly
1 ham hock
2 cups dry white wine, such as Riesling
1-2 cups chicken stock
6 pounds sauerkraut (the refrigerated bagged variety)
1/2 pound baby red potatoes (washed)
1 1/2 pounds assorted sausages (i.e. Frankfurters, Bratwurst, and Kielbasa etc.)
1 teaspoon ground white pepper (or to taste)
Assorted mustards for serving (i.e. spicy Dijon, whole grain stout, and a sweeter variety like tarragon mustard)
Instructions:
Season the pork loin and shoulder generously with Kosher salt. If time permits, place the meat on a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet and allow to rest uncovered in the refrigerator for 1-2 days for maximum flavor and to help the meat retain juices. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees F. In a large Dutch oven or roasting pan, add enough fat to lightly coat the bottom of the pan. Add the onions and garlic and place over medium-low heat. Cook until the onions are softened and translucent. In a small dry skillet, add the juniper berries and caraway seeds. Turn the heat to low and toast the spices for about 2 minutes or until fragrant, shaking the pan occasionally. Add the toasted spices along with the whole cloves and bay leaves to the onions and garlic. Nestle the pork shoulder, slab bacon, and ham hock into the onion mixture. Pour the wine and 1 cup of chicken stock over the meat. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cover with parchment paper to form a lid. Transfer to the preheated oven for 1 1/2 hours. Meanwhile, prepare the pork loin and sauerkraut. Grease an oven-proof skillet with a light coating of fat. Sear the pork loin over medium-high heat, then place in the oven until an internal temperature reaches 120 degrees F. Place the sauerkraut in a colander and rinse under cold water (rinse well if you want it less sour and salty). Once rinsed, gently squeeze out the excess liquid. Once the pork shoulder and ham hock have baked for 1 1/2 hours, add the sauerkraut and mix into the braising liquid. Return the meat and kraut to the oven and increase the temperature to 300 degrees F (with the parchment lid). Roast for 1 hour or until the meat is tender. Slice the roasted pork loin and nestle it, along with the baby potatoes, into the roasting pan with the other ingredients. Roast for 10-15 minutes or until the potatoes are almost tender. Add the sausages and roast for another 10-15 minutes or until the sausages are heated through and the potatoes are tender. Remove all of the meat and set aside. Season the sauerkraut with Kosher salt and white pepper to taste. Using a slotted spoon, mound the sauerkraut and potatoes onto a platter. Arrange the meat over and around the sauerkraut. Serve with an assortment of mustards.
Yield: 10 servings
