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Until recently, I never liked goat cheese. Goat cheese typically has a distinctive barnyard funk. Some people love the flavor, but I have yet to develop a taste for it.
Last month I attended the National Sauna Day event at the Nelimark Homestead Museum in Embarrass. One of the vendors had a couple of adorable baby goats and I made a beeline toward them.
The owner, Wendy Sweney, was offering samples of her goat cheese. I hesitantly took a sample. Immediately, I was in disbelief at how delicious it was. The flavor was mild, creamy, and seasoned with the perfect blend of spices.
I gave Wendy my card and asked if she would be willing to let me write an article about her cheese. She kindly accepted and a few weeks later I was invited to tour her farm in Embarrass.
Upon pulling into her driveway, the misty morning turned to rain. I was glad I remembered to wear my muck boots. I made my way across the expansive yard towards the barn where I could see Wendy waiting for me. She met me halfway and greeted me with a big hug.
Wendy is one of those people that you meet and instantly feel like you have known them for years. She was genuinely happy to share her passion for goats with me.
As soon as we made it to the barn, she squatted down and two baby goats leapt onto her petite frame. Another two were trying to do the same. Wendy looked unphased, and I could tell this was the norm.
It was then that I noticed a cast on her left arm. She said she had recently suffered a fall after a rooster attack and broke her wrist. I have dealt with rooster rage a time or two myself, so I could empathize.
We then walked around and petted the rest of the herd. Many of the goats looked identical, but Wendy was able to rattle off names for them all.
Next, it was time to start milking. Wendy demonstrated with the first goat, then let me take a turn with the second one. I was shocked at just how hard milking was and it took me several minutes to get any milk to come out.
Meanwhile, we chatted about life. Wendy revealed that she served as a flutist in the U.S. Marine Corps band. I suddenly realized why she was able to continue farm duties with a broken wrist. The Marine Corps motto is Semper Fidelis, which means “Always Faithful.”
This motto continues wherever life takes a Marine. Even in the barnyard. Farming is hard work and her animals depend on her.
After the goats were milked, she gave them each an animal cracker as a special treat. We loaded the jars of fresh milk into a basket and carried it towards her farmhouse. A “Welcome Crystal” sign was by the door. I could already tell that Wendy is a seasoned host.
We made our way into her beautiful kitchen, which looked like it was plucked from the pages of a magazine. Freshly baked berry muffins were cooling on the counter. Wendy offered me a muffin and freshly made goat milk eggnog, which was the best eggnog I have ever had.
I asked Wendy why her goat milk tastes so much better than regular goat milk and she said it is because her goats are of the Nigerian Dwarf breed. Dwarf goats are significantly smaller than full-size breeds, so they produce less milk. Most goat farmers go for quantity over quality.
Wendy then showed me how she makes her fabulous cheese that she seasons with garlic powder, onion powder, salt, and coarsely ground black pepper. The process was similar to making ricotta, but the finished product was more like Finnish squeaky cheese. In fact, this cheese can be broiled like squeaky cheese. You can also slice and fry it in a dry skillet over medium high heat until browned on both sides, or use it as a topping for focaccia. It is very versatile.
Wendy prefers to eat the cheese as is with basil or fresh fruit. Aside from farming and cheesemaking, Wendy enjoys playing the flute at her church and spending time with her large extended family. She and her husband Bruce also enjoy kayaking, gardening, and fishing.
If you would like to inquire about this goat cheese or if you are looking to buy a goat, Wendy has several for sale. You can contact her by email at [email protected].
I would like to give my sincere thanks to Wendy for showing me a lovely time and for reminding me the importance of sourcing ingredients locally. It feels good to know this cheese was produced by goats who are loved and well-cared for.
Goat Cheese Focaccia
Ingredients:
Bread:
1 cup warm water (100-110 degrees F)
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil plus extra for greasing
1 teaspoon instant yeast
2 cups 00 pizza flour (available at the Ely Zup’s) or bread flour
1 teaspoon salt
Toppings:
Flaky sea salt, to taste
1/2 cup crumbled local goat cheese plus a few thin slices cut to look like mushroom stems
1/2 cup cooked and crumbled Zup’s Italian Sausage (hot or mild)
6-8 fresh or dried and reconstituted small mushrooms
1 small bunch of fresh chives
Instructions:
Bread:
In a large bowl, whisk together the water, oil, and yeast. Add the flour and salt. Stir until fully combined. The dough should be soft and sticky. Cover and let rest in a warm place for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, lightly grease your fingertips with more oil. Grab the dough on one side. Stretch and pull it to the opposite side of the bowl. Rotate the bowl a quarter turn and repeat the pulling. Rotate twice more, pulling the remaining two quarters. Cover the dough and let rest another 30 minutes, then repeat the pulling. Do this process a total of 4 times with 30 minutes in between each round. Cover the dough and refrigerate for 12-24 hours. After chilling, give the dough one more round of pulling as soon as you remove it from the fridge. Generously grease an 8 or 9 inch baking pan with 1 1/2 tablespoons of olive oil. Place the dough in the pan and flatten slightly. Turn to coat the other side. Cover and let rest in a warm place for 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Carefully form the rested dough into the shape of the pan. Make deep dimples in the dough with your fingertips.
Toppings:
Sprinkle the dough with flaky salt. In a small bowl, stir the goat cheese and sausage together, then sprinkle over the bottom third of the bread. Add the goat cheese “stems” and mushrooms. Place chives in between the mushrooms. Press all of the ingredients gently into the dough. Drizzle with a tablespoon of oil, pouring most of it over the bare side of the focaccia. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown.
Yield: 8 servings.
