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Part 2 – Duluth to Thunder Bay
The first section of our trip around Lake Superior travels from Duluth, MN to Thunder Bay, ON. This stretch possibly includes the largest number of points of interest along the whole route.
Fortunately, we live only a few miles from Minnesota’s “North Shore” and have known this area intimately our entire lives. I’ll try to include as many highlights that I can remember but am bound to miss one here or there.
Highway 61 is your route. Most is two-lane and very crowded in the summer. Many improvements have been made to the road surface over the last few years, however, expect to find some smaller construction areas still taking place. Be aware of several speed limit reductions around the state parks. The road follows the shoreline closely, and pedestrians cross from parking lots and residences along most of the shoreline. Plenty of gas stations and places to eat along the way.
“Cooler by the Lake” is a common saying up here. Summertime temperatures sometime require a sweater or jacket. While most people spend their vacations here in the summer, fall color tours are spectacular and even some winter activities bring crowds to the shore.
Duluth is the largest city on the tour, edging out Sault St. Marie, ON. Duluth’s latest population figure is 86,619 compared to “the Soo’s” 78,874. As such, the city contains multiple places and services for the vacation traveler. The maritime flavor of the vacation starts at Canal Park and the internationally famous “Lift Bridge”. One can easily spend an entire day visiting several shops, eating establishments, Hoop’s Brewery, one of the only remaining Red Lobster restaurants, antique stores, the Lake Superior Maritime Visitor Center and relax along the Lakewalk and the Bayfront Festival Park. Nearby you’ll find the Great Lakes Aquarium and the William A. Irvin Museum – a former working ore boat on the Great Lakes.
Moving up the shore, stop at the Congdon Mansion for a tour before you leave the city. Historic home of one of Duluth’s richest citizens, it gives a great look at turn of the century architecture and interior design. Also the site of one of northern Minnesota’s greatest murder mysteries!
Several small communities dot the lakeshore as you head to the Canadian border. The first is Two Harbors. A walk along the breakwater and to the Two Harbors Lighthouse Museum is a treat.
There are some small private campgrounds nearby. Grandma’s Marathon starts here and is run down to Canal Park in Duluth every June.
Between Two Harbors and Silver Bay you’ll find two of the State’s parks. Gooseberry State Park is one of the most popular in Minnesota. Easy access to the main falls, as well as good hiking trails to the lake make for a relaxing visit. There is a very nice campground here. However, with all the campgrounds along the North Shore, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to drive up and get a spot. Many are filled weeks and months ahead of time during June, July, August and September. Be sure to call ahead if you intend to get a camping spot. Cancellations and mid-week bookings are often available.
Split Rock Lighthouse State Park is just a few more miles down the road. Probably one of the most photographed landmarks on “the Shore”, it also provides hiking trails, a museum tour of the Lighthouse and camping.
Silver Bay comes next with ample amenities and hosts the North Shore Adventure Park with a high ropes course and zipline.
Black Beach Municipal Campground is only a couple of years old and very well maintained. It is quite open, but campsites will become more private over the next few years with a lot of the plantings they have done.
Palisade Head brings you to the boundary of Tettegouche State Park. Hiking, agate picking and a campground as well as a beautiful visitor center greets you here.
George Manitou State Park is the next stop. Touted as one of Minnesota’s least used state parks, its draw is hiking the back country under challenging conditions – most notably elevation changes. You are rewarded with spectacular views along most of the trails. A campground is also available here.
Sugarloaf Point Scientific and Natural Area (SNA) is the site of an old logging camp on Lake Superior. Now it is used for scientific research and has a visitor center and hiking trails. Beware of staying on trails and be respective of sensitive areas. Nature walks are scheduled daily.
Temperance River State Park greets you near Tofte. Miles of hiking, beach combing and a campground right on Lake Superior are highlights.
Lutson boasts downhill skiing in the winter and Lutson National Golf Course in the summer. If you’re a golfer, there are some very interesting and challenging holes on this 36-hole course.
Cascade River State Park provides hiking trails along the river that has spectacular waterfalls and wildlife. The campground is quiet, and many sites are semi-private.
A very scenic portion of HWY 61 then brings you to Grand Marais. This little community has become one of the country’s favorite areas for artists of all types. “Artists Point” brings you right down to the lakeshore with the black volcanic basalt of the area meeting Lake Superior’s blue waters. Several galleries can be found along its main street as well as many eating establishments.
North House Folk School hosts workshops by many internationally known artists of several genres. A large municipal campground is on the southern edge of town.
The “Gunflint Trail” starts here and meanders as a 53-mile blacktopped road deep into Minnesota’s wilderness. One of the best routes to encounter moose, bear, wolves and lynx in the area.
C.R. Magney State Park greets you to the north along the shore. Smaller and less crowded, it is considered a jewel among Minnesota’s State Park system.
Hikes in challenging terrain and a campground can be found here. The infamous “Devil’s Kettle” is a highlight.
Finally, we’re getting close to the border. The overviews of Lake Superior begin to look a bit more rugged. You’ll soon be entering the Grand Portage Reservation with the Grand Portage National Monument a definite stop to make. Signifying the beginning of “Le Grande Portage”, or the route the Voyageurs had to traverse to get into the interior of the Minnesota/Ontario back country in the early 1700’s, it holds some of the earliest history of the area. If you’re lucky, you might find an elder of the reservation who can take you back to the Spirit Tree. Dating back more than 300 years, it is sacred to the local Ojibwe tribe and is off-limits unless accompanied by a tribal member.
Grand Portage State Park is the last destination spot on the U.S. side of the international border. Located less than a mile from the crossing, it has a visitor center and a 4.5-mile hike that takes you past High Falls on the Pigeon River. This is the highest waterfall in Minnesota and drops 120 feet from top to bottom. This is the only state park along the North Shore that does not have a campground associated with it.
Fishing is popular along the shore and many rivers that enter the lake. Annual runs of steelhead and smelt provide ample opportunities. Pink salmon, brook trout and lake trout can all by caught by shore fishing. “Coaster” brook trout are also occasionally caught. Special seasons, licenses and tackle restrictions are in place from the big lake to the first “barriers”. Check local bait shops for local laws and rules.
One other feature to make note of along the North Shore is the Lake Superior Hiking Trail. This route travels 310 miles, starting in Jay Cooke State Park south of Duluth and ending at the Pigeon River along the U.S./Canadian border. Here it links up with the Border Trail and is part of the North Country Trail hiking system. LSHT is easily accessed along many points along the North Shore, affording everything from day hikes to over-nighters, to re-supply spots for through hikers.
Whew! That’s a lot to do! No wonder this stretch of the Circle Tour is so busy in the summertime.
Our trip this spring starts where this part leaves off. We left about 10:00 in the morning with our first day’s destination being just east of Thunder Bay. Lots to do here, as well. Some high points to look at – Ft. William Historical Park, Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park, Thunder Bay Museum, Cascades Conservation Area and Mount McKay. We’ve visited many of these in the past and decided to move through the city and find a campground just to the east. This first day was a bit of a shake-down to check the camper out and get back into camping mode.
We stayed at the KOA along the Spruce River Road. There are many other campgrounds in the area, but this was the only one open that we could find because of our early travel dates. It is right along Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, which can be a destination in itself. In all honesty, it was very nice. Full hook-ups. Cabins available. Bathrooms and showers modern, clean and serviced several times a day. Multiple family-friendly activities from horseshoes, to basketball, to two pools (not open while we were there), volleyball, soccer and two dog parks. It was a bit more expensive than we had planned for, and aside from the dog parks, we weren’t interested in the other activities for this trip. Cost was $176/Canadian. We traveled almost exactly 200 miles this first day.
Shakedown done, tomorrow we start the real part of our trip. Part 3 will include our adventures on the Canadian side of Lake Superior.
